Crepes in Philly

I have been living in Philadelphia for just about a week and so far have been enjoying my time in the city. Rather than think about how much I miss Ann Arbor, I'd like to share a new place I tried this weekend.

My sister came over for dinner on Saturday night, and she told me about a crepe restaurant she'd tried recently. After she spent a while describing delectable, mouth-watering desserts, we decided to just go out and get some. The chocolate chip cookies I had in the apartment were not going to be satisfying after that conversation.

After a short bus ride and a few blocks' walk, we ended up at Beau Monde. It gave me two things I missed most about France - outdoor seating and Breton crepes.

I spent last summer in Brittany, the northwest region of France. Rather than rolling their crepes or folding them into triangles, they fold them into squares, like this:

This was an egg, cheese and probably ham crepe in Rennes. Delicious!

My sister and I each got sweet crepes. The fun thing about Beau Monde is that they give you a list of ingredients, and you pick whatever you'd like to add together for your dinner or dessert crepe. (They also have suggestions for if you're like me and get overwhelmed by choices.) The price varies based on what you add to your crepe. My sister tried cherry compote, chocolate and creme Anglaise, while I tried baked pears, chestnut cream and chocolate. Both were delicious, though I think next time I'd like to try something with more fruit and sorbet.

The inside of the restaurant is elegant, and along the sidewalks outside they have a raised seating area with a thin iron railing surrounding it. We sat outside under a big yellow umbrella - I was so glad it was a nice night.

Some of my favorite experiences last summer involved crepes and sitting outdoors. During the first weekend trip I took by myself (to see castles!) I stayed in Tours. For dinner, I wandered around the city's restaurant district. It was probably more touristy than other parts of the city, but it was a lot of fun. I found my way to a quiet restaurant for dinner. This was surprisingly easy. It was in the middle of the World Cup, so the only restaurant without a huge crowd was a small crepe place that didn't have a TV. I ordered my first kir (white whine and creme de cassis) and a dinner crepe, sat by myself, and read a book. (I picked it up at the train station because it looked easy to read. It turned out to be the French equivalent of a Nicholas Sparks novel.)

In the last week of my time in Nantes, I also went out for crepes several times with the two other girls from Michigan. We found one creperie in the Bouffay district that was wonderful and had a great outdoor patio. During that week we went at least three times. I also loved the cafe culture in France during the summer, where you can sit outside with a drink, watch people go by, and enjoy the weather. In Nantes' restaurant district almost all the streets were for pedestrians only, so sitting outside did not mean you'd have to talk over the sound of car engines or risk accidentally tripping a biker.

But now back to Philly. Beau Monde's street was relatively quiet, so we could have a conversation easily. Also, because we were close to South Street where there are a lot of bars, we got to watch several bachelorette parties wander by. Sitting with my sister at Beau Monde and happily eating our crepes reminded me of last summer and how much I loved France. It was a great evening and I am definitely looking forward to spending more time exploring Philadelphia.

Ashley's

Another entry in the list of places I miss in Ann Arbor

Ashley's is a bar on State Street that I love. It has over sixty beers on tap and their menu is descriptive and helpful when you try to choose one. Ashley's was the first bar I went to on my 21st birthday, and it played a significant role in my post-21 year old life. From Friday afternoons to long conversation-filled evenings, Ashley's is one of my favorite places in Ann Arbor.

Ashley's is the type of bar where people arrive with the intention of sitting and spending the evening there. You grab a table with some friends, order a round of beers, and catch up. The music is quieter than bars on South University so it's easier to have a good conversation. The beer is great - no matter what kinds you like, you can find them. I'm partial to Belgian-style ales and wheat ales. I've only been for dinner a few times and the entrees were tasty, and their late-night appetizers are delicious. Their pesto fries seem to be the best-known item for good reason. Waffle fries spread with a generous amount of pesto, served with an olive dipping sauce - wonderful with a cold beer and great to share with some friends.

I have many stories about nights at Ashley's with friends: the night I learned that absinthe dropped in Red Bull is dangerous but surprisingly doesn't taste bad; the night I went to grab a quiet beer with a few friends only to discover that it was the Oberon Release Night and some woman was about to be crowed Oberon Queen (Bell's Oberon is brewed in Kalamazoo and is only available in the summer. It is amazing.); the night my brother and his girlfriend were in town and I was finally old enough to take them out to a bar. One of the best ways to describe Ashley's, though, is through my Friday afternoons this year.

On most Friday afternoons from 2-4 pm, I had my history thesis seminar. Unfortunately, that was the only time all of us were available to meet. In my experience, very few college students enjoy Friday afternoon classes. It's practically the weekend, you could be spending your time getting work done (or sleeping), you could leave to go home for the weekend, and so on and so forth. But alas, I had Friday afternoon class both semesters of senior year. While I did like my classmates and overall it was an interesting class, my attention span for discussions about historiography, for example, is really only so long on Fridays after 2:15. My friend Elaine came up with a fantastic solution: after class, we'd go to Ashley's. There was a group of us that would head out, each grab a beer (or soda or coffee) and sit and chat. It wasn't anything wild, just a nice, casual way to wind down after a long week and a long class. We'd chat about our theses and our lives, and I made some good friends those Friday afternoons. I looked forward to time at Ashley's every week. Even on weeks without class, we'd make an effort to carve out an hour at 4 pm to quickly sip a beer and talk.

That, more than anything, is what I think of when I think about Ashley's. Yes, the range of beers is great and I love the pesto fries, but Ashley's is about grabbing a table with some friends and talking. That's something that I definitely miss now that I'm away from Ann Arbor. Well, that and Oberon.

Added May 23
My friend Amol pointed out to me that I forgot to mention Ashley's Beer Tour card. If you ask, your server will give you a card that lists all of the bar's beers, including spaces for rotating taps. When you order new beers, they sign off on the card, and once you've tried a certain number you can get cool free stuff. For example, after five beers you can get a free appetizer. After 100, you get a personalized hooded sweatshirt. Not too shabby. My goal had been an Ashley's pint glass, which I would have achieved after 20 beers. (Please note: you can only get signed off for four beers any given evening, so they are not trying to encourage you to order an excessive amount of beer in one night.) Sadly, after getting signed off for seven over the course of several weeks, I left my card on the table one night. It was too close to graduation to have a reasonable chance of achieving 20 beers, so I abandoned that dream. Maybe someday I'll be back in Ann Arbor for a long enough stretch to earn a pair of pint glasses, and maybe some free cheddar ale fries on the way.

Introducing: William the Wonder Bear

When I was born, my parents bought me a small white teddy bear. Before I had learned to walk, talk, or defend my territory, my older sister and brother "borrowed" my bear to play with on their own. It really followed the sibling code as I understand it, which is that if you're not using a toy, it means you don't want it and therefore it is fair game. So really, my siblings were just putting my bear to good use while I could not.

My first Christmas, my parents gave me a wonderful book called Alphabears, written by Kathleen Hague and illustrated by Michael Hague. They chose it because the bear for L is Laura, who doesn't like lightning. (As it turns out, this Laura doesn't either). It was always one of my favorite books when I was little. My sister and brother read Alphabears as well, and they noticed that the bear for W, William, looked strikingly like my own teddy bear. The line reads, "W is for William, the great wonder bear/He wears a white cape and soars through the air." My bear was dubbed William the Wonder Bear and I'm guessing was launched through the air frequently.

My bear on solid ground.

Now, seeing as I was less than three months old at this time, I do not remember my bear being named William the Wonder Bear. I grew very attached to my bear and slept cuddled up with it every night. One day when I was about three, I took my bear with me as I accompanied my mom to the post office. As we walked along the sidewalk, I realized that I hadn't named my bear yet. I'd had it for three years and it didn't have a name! I thought that the right name just hadn't occurred to me yet. So then and there, I decided on the bear's name: Rainbow. Very appropriate for an entirely white bear.

I also began to dress Rainbow in clothes that I found in our attic. Later I discovered these had belonged to one of my sister's dolls. According to the sibling code, though, the doll clearly wasn't wearing them, so... Anyways, when my brother and sister discovered that I had renamed William the Wonder Bear, they were horrified. This was partly because Rainbow is not nearly as glorious and superhero-like as William the Wonder Bear, but also because William...


... was now female!

Rainbow, as long as I have known her, has been a girl bear. In the nearly twenty years since that fateful day at the post office, my brother and sister have not forgotten their days with the Wonder Bear, and still occasionally call her by that name. Every now and then they lament the days when William was their bear who would fly around our house. Rainbow also provoked other jealousies as I grew up. Since my siblings are a bit older than me, they were off at school while I played at home and convinced my mom to help me make clothes for Rainbow. My siblings complained that my bear got more perks than they did. My sister was incensed when Rainbow got a small version the tall, multicolored hat that she had always asked for, the kind that street vendors sell on Patriots' Day and the Fourth of July.

Next up, the Belle dress my sister always wanted!

Okay... maybe that was a little much. But she does look fantastic, right? This bear has been with me through many phases. Rainbow was my model for early stitching and knitting projects and she still has a box full of oddly shaped dresses and scarves. When for some reason in elementary school I thought having a cast seemed cool, Rainbow "broke her arm." I found white cloth to wrap around her arm, then made her a sling. Eventually, it healed, probably after a couple days when I realized that she was easier to cuddle with if she didn't have the extra gear. She was also the star of my attempted film musical based on Beatles music during first grade. It's probably good for all my family and friends that I never finished that screenplay. I believe the plot revolved around Rainbow disappearing and a fuzzy reindeer stuffed animal named Jude going out to get her, wherever she was. I like to think I got more creative after that year.

Rainbow has come with me to college and helped me get through homesickness, stress, and thunder storms. I'd say that takes a Wonder Bear. She'll be coming with me wherever else I end up, too. When it came time to think of a title for this blog, referencing William just seemed to fit.

Travel Writer

Another entry in my series on ideal future career plans

Last summer, I had the opportunity to travel around Europe for several weeks after living in France for two months. I visited parts of France, Italy, Greece, and Turkey and loved them all. I discovered new favorite foods (gelato, gyros, and baklava), drinks (Mythos beer, Turkish apple tea) and saw beautiful places. I also met interesting people, both other travelers in hostels and permanent residents. One Turkish store owner gave my boyfriend and me tea and had us sit outside his shop and chat with him for a while. At a sandwich cart in Istanbul, we met a couple who had saved up to travel around the world for two years. One of my favorite people we met was working in Paris.

When we were visiting Notre Dame, I started chatting with one of the workers as we waited in line. His job was to stand at the entrance for the top terrace of the cathedral and let a certain number of people up at a time. He told me that with his view, he could watch how the sky changed during the seasons. Because he was up there all year, he saw things that no one else took the time to notice. There had been times when light cut through the clouds in ways that paintings always depict but that seem too perfect to be real. After talking for a bit, it was our turn to head up to the top to look around. On the way back down, he stopped us to tell us what he thought the best view in Paris was from the top of Sacre Coeur, then gave us directions. To get there, we had to take a side door that few people knew about and which was set to be closed relatively soon. He was absolutely right about the view:


It did take several dozen steps to get up there, though. I love finding places like this. Ideally, I could make traveling a career. I could work for the travel section of a major newspaper, explore new places and report back on the food, culture, and hot spots. I'm sure it's harder than it sounds - food writers have to eat at some pretty bad restaurants along with the good ones, I know - but it could be a lot of fun. Worth dreaming about, at least!

Even if I'm not a travel writer for my career, I do love traveling! Where do you suggest I visit?

Trumpet vs. Saxophone

In fourth grade, everyone had the opportunity to start playing a string instrument and take lessons once a week during school. A bunch of my friends picked up the violin or cello, but I held out for fifth grade when you got to try the wind instruments. My sister had played the clarinet, my brother played the trumpet, and I knew I would either play the saxophone or the French horn. I couldn't wait for the day that the instructors would come to demonstrate the instruments for the fifth graders - it was going to be great!

But then that day came, and I discovered that the instructors were experimenting with my year. Since there were multiple elementary schools in town, they only offered four instruments at each school with the assumption that then they wouldn't end up with thirty flutes and two trombones in the middle school band. At my school, you could choose either the flute, clarinet, trombone or trumpet. No saxophone, no French horn. I wasn't sure what to do. After talking to my brother, I decided to try the trumpet and borrowed his old student instrument. I liked it, I was about as decent as any fifth grader could be, and I enjoyed my lessons and band practice on Thursday afternoons.

Some time in the middle of the year, though, I freaked out. What if I was supposed to be a saxophone player? What if I never tried it, and that was the instrument I was meant to play? I have a distinct memory of curling up on my mom's lap in our kitchen (even though by this point I was definitely more than five feet tall) sobbing because I was so worried that I had made the wrong choice and would never be able to correct it. She assured me that everything was going to be okay. I should finish the year out on the trumpet, and then in the future, if I really wanted to, she said I could try the saxophone and see how I liked it.

I stuck with the trumpet and have continued playing through college. In many ways, had I switched I would not have had the same experiences and may have ended up with different groups of friends and maybe a different personality or future goals. Trumpets are in wind ensembles, jazz ensembles, and orchestras, while saxophones are only occasionally in orchestras. Through playing the trumpet, I performed in ensembles at Symphony Hall and the Monterey Jazz Festival and have met some of my best friends in bands, jazz ensembles, and orchestras. I'm happy with the choice my fifth grade self made, despite the anguish at the time.

As I face graduating from college this Saturday, though, I find myself in a similar position. I've loved earning a degree in history, but looking towards the future and job prospects, I'm nervous about the choices I make. What if I'm supposed to be in arts administration? What if I'm supposed to earn a PhD in history? What if really, all this time, I was actually destined to be Tina Fey's co-writer (and best friend)? What if I start on a career path and make the wrong choice?

I try to take a step back and put everything in perspective. I've watched my siblings and others change jobs to find what they liked best, and I know many people do switch careers entirely multiple times in life. My job right out of college is unlikely to be my lifelong career. And my mom's advice when I was eleven is still true - it's not impossible try something out to see if it fits for me.

Do you have any advice for soon-to-be graduates?

Frita Batidos

A new location on the list of places I'll miss!

I tried Frita Batidos for the first time in March when a friend suggested we all go there after hearing another friend's master's recital. (She did an excellent job, by the way! Go Elim!) I owe that friend so much for introducing me to this amazing restaurant:

Okay, maybe it's hard to read the sign.

They serve Cuban-inspired food that is absolutely wonderful. Fritas are Cuban burgers - they have chorizo, beef, black bean for the vegetarians, etc - served on soft rolls with fries on top. I first tried the beef frita and devoured it in a matter of minutes. I've also had their pulled pork sandwich, served with a really sweet slaw on top. The twice-fried plantains are also delicious... I could go on and on. Since that first dinner there, I have been back at least once almost every weekend.

The second part of the restaurant's name is from the special drinks they serve, batidos. They're a type of milkshake that is thick and creamy. Once they get their liquor license, you can add a splash of rum, too, if you are so inclined. I tried a few flavors, but then fell in love with the Caramel Rum Cream batido. Oh man... it just might be one of the most delicious drinks I have ever tasted.

I drank half of it in the ten minute walk back to my house to take this picture.
Look - it comes with a little umbrella!

The casual atmosphere is also great - rather than having a bunch of individual tables, there are several long picnic tables and benches. It's fun to be able to chat with new people next to you, or squeeze all your friends into one.

I cannot tell you how much I will miss this place, especially since I only discovered it in the last couple months. If you stay in Ann Arbor, it is definitely worth a try. It's over on West Washington, just a block off Main Street. Try the batidos. You will love them.

Main Street and State Street

Here is another entry in the series about places I will miss in Ann Arbor!

I love State Street and Main Street in Ann Arbor because each gives me a specific feeling when I walk around. State Street is right on campus. As you walk north from the Union, you pass Angell Hall and other academic buildings as well as coffee shops, restaurants, and other stores. Here's the view from the corner of State Street and North University:

In the photo on top, you can see Red Hawk, the bar with the awesome drink specials.
The second photo looks towards campus, and you can see the Natural Science building and Mason Hall.
The third photo shows Nickel's Arcade and way down toward the corner is Ashley's.

And here is Angell Hall, one of the most beautiful academic buildings in my opinion:

Doesn't it just ooze knowledge?

Walking up State Street, you are often surrounded by other students heading to class. It's easy to run into someone you know. It feels both academic and slightly separated from classes, since the street also houses places to grab food, coffee, and cute clothes. I've been a little bummed that in the past year, a CVS and a 7-11 have opened on State Street, so it feels a little more corporate and a little less unique. I have several friends who are thrilled, though, and I do like that milk is cheaper at the CVS than at the other grocery store within walking distance of my house. (This all relates back to a class I just finished up, so I will leave the discussion there.) But especially from the corner of North U and State, you can turn one way to walk towards the Diag, another way to grab some dinner, and a third to just wander through town. I love it.

Main Street, on the other hand, is several blocks off campus in what I think of as "real Ann Arbor." A lot of students still live around the area, but it seems like you are more likely to run into Ann Arbor residents there than on State Street. It is filled with delicious restaurants of various levels of fanciness. I walked around today to take pictures because it is gorgeous out. For some reason it got cloudy once I took out my camera. Of course. Here are photos:

In the first photo, you can see a few stores including the Vault of Midnight. Such a cool name.
In the second photo, you can see some of the fancier restaurants, including the Chop House and La Dolce Vita. People were eating at tables outside today! It's always a real sign of spring.

Walking around Main Street makes me imagine the life I hope to be leading when I am a real adult (which will be happening much too soon). Hopefully I will be spending time in classy bars drinking fancy drinks, but also I hope to be visiting interesting, beautiful places. During the winter, all the trees on Main Street have little white lights in them and the entire street looks magical. I hope that wherever I end up will have little things like that to make it beautiful.

Speaking of little things, here is another reason I love Main Street:

Outside Peaceable Kingdom!

Here is one of Ann Arbor's Fairy Doors! I mentioned them in my last post, too. There are several up and down Main, and they add to the sense of magic that I find in Ann Arbor.

With only seven days left in town, I'm going to try to see as much of the city as possible! Feel free to suggest some bucket list items for me!